Sometimes it takes a leap in technological advancement to solve those problems. One issue a lot of high powered cars can run into is the possibility of the flywheel coming loose. Flywheels can come loose for a variety of reasons, but once this happens you can pretty much kiss your crank goodbye. Typically if the flywheel comes loose it will end up welding (fretting) itself to the crankshaft and typically damages the crank beyond repair. This can end up being an incredibly costly problem. We've teamed up with global engineering powerhouse, 3M, to offer their friction shim technology specially developed for flywheel applications to provide that extra level of protection. Dubbed Flywheel Friction Locks, our FFLs consist of a nickel-coated steel substrate with partially embedded diamond particles. When placed between the flywheel and crank, the diamonds “bite” into each surface. With an installed thickness of .006"-.009" an FFL will not significantly alter assembly spacing. FFLs are easy to assemble and can be reused after disassembly. To sum that up, by installing a Flywheel Friction Lock you give yourself a much better chance of the flywheel not coming loose in the first place, and if for some reason it does, you'll have an extra layer of very hard steel that can prevent the flywheel from damaging your crankshaft. It has been proven that our FFLs offer a simple and cost-effective way to reliably handle up to 5× higher shear forces and transmit up to 5× higher torque than conventional systems with no other modifications.
This Part Fits:
Year
Make
Model
Submodel
2008-2010
BMW
135i
Base
2000
BMW
323i
Base
2001-2003
BMW
325Ci
Base
1987-1993,2001-2003
BMW
325i
Base
1987-1993
BMW
325is
Base
1988-1991
BMW
325iX
Base
2001-2003
BMW
325xi
Base
2000
BMW
328Ci
Base
1999-2000
BMW
328i
Base
1999
BMW
328is
Base
2001-2003
BMW
330Ci
Base
2001-2003
BMW
330i
Base
2001-2003
BMW
330xi
Base
2009
BMW
335d
Base
2007-2009
BMW
335i
Base
2009
BMW
335i xDrive
Base
2007-2008
BMW
335xi
Base
2001-2003
BMW
525i
Base
1999-2000
BMW
528i
Base
1975-1978,2001-2003
BMW
530i
Base
2014-2016
BMW
535d
Base
2014-2016
BMW
535d xDrive
Base
2008-2016
BMW
535i
Base
2010-2016
BMW
535i GT
Base
2011-2016
BMW
535i GT xDrive
Base
2009-2016
BMW
535i xDrive
Base
2008
BMW
535xi
Base
1988-1991,1995-1999
BMW
M3
Base
1995
BMW
M3
Lightweight
2001-2005
BMW
X5
3.0i
2001-2005
BMW
X5
4.4i
2002-2003
BMW
X5
4.6is
2004-2005
BMW
X5
4.8is
1999-2000
BMW
Z3
Coupe
1999-2002
BMW
Z3
M Coupe
1998-2002
BMW
Z3
M Roadster
1998-2000
BMW
Z3
Roadster
1989-1993
Toyota
Supra
Base
1989-1992
Toyota
Supra
Turbo
1993-1998
Toyota
Supra
Twin Turbo
Customer Reviews
Overall rating: 4.7 / 5 from 544 reviews.
First off super happy with the product from quality to fit. This was my first install and it was quite easy all the necessary hardware was there. I was looking for mid price head studs and I’ll say I love them I have a 100% and a s480 I’ve had no problems with it and I beat on it every day. 10/10 recommend.
put in the billet heat exchanger and when removing the old trans lines one of the lines bent when loosening nut. Great quality line fits perfectly way better than factory!
Fit perfectly in the stock location and is way bigger than stock and shipped fast. Would recommend full send diesel to anyone looking at these type of parts!
I had a few questions about the install. I called and left a message and then shortly there after my call was returned with the answers I needed. Appreciate the help.
The billet heat exchanger looks great and is machined nicely. No worries about an internal failure allowing fluids to mix. It seems to be doing its job. It's more robust than the factory style cooler but I don’t believe it is quite as efficient based on warm up times I’m seeing. My only gripe is the bracket mounting bolts, they thread directly onto the cooler instead of passing all the way through and securing with nuts. Make sure to use thread locker along with the lock washers. As a rough guide, torque for M8 fasteners in aluminum should be 11-15 ft lbs, no torque spec is listed for the mounting hardware in the instructions.
It’s not bad, I was in a bind and needed a quick fix to get my truck back going. So first things first, the kit works. You can get rid of the steel lines and these will take their place. With about an hour and a half and a little research it doesn’t take much to get these hoses installed. However, I have some gripes about this kit.
1. You have to be very careful about how the lines are run to prevent the hose from kinking.
2. There are no p clamps or hardware included to hold the lines in place.
To improve this kit, I’d toss some hose clamps, a couple bolts with some p clamps to hold the hose, maybe a couple pictures on where to run things too, or even total install instructions. Stiffer hose would be good too, in my pictures you can see that the hose going to the front of the engine is trying to kink as it makes the bend to run beside the turbo.
It came with no gaskets this item deff needs to be sold with cover gasket as well as the seal for the crank even a plug for the vent or a fitting to hook a tube to the vent. Didn’t come with shit but bolts. Now I got to track everything else down seperatly makes it a pain in the ass. At this point I’d rather have stayed stock
AN line came apart on the hose barb with the clamping nut still tight within 2k miles. Almost nuked a brand new transmission before i could get it to the shoulder.
I installed them when I built my transmission. Hoses are good quality but fittings felt kind of cheap. Not a bad kit at all. I’d recommend it to anyone. Substantial trans temp difference after putting them on. My trans runs a lot cooler now that I’ve bypassed the heat exchanger. 2012 ram 2500 with 68rfe. 9/10 would recommend. Just be gentle with the fittings
Awesome upper coolant pipe. Just what I wanted polished to go with my other parts. Great price and fast shipping. Also entries to possibly win a bad ass Cummins.
Great replacement transmission line kit for the 4th gen trucks. Other thing I added was heat sock around the lines running by the turbo and down pipe. Also got another transmission by pass block that has removable line adapters, so you can use the AN adapters.
I installed this cooler and a few weeks later got into a wreck that was able to damn near total my truck, the frame is bent in 4 places and it shifted my ranch and bumper a foot. This cooler was the only radiator that survived everything else was destroyed and wrapped around the cooler. I called customer support and was able to order new stainless steel brackets and this cooler will live again. I’m very impressed with the quality and strength of this part and would gladly buy it for another truck.
Had a confusion on core for the value body. But once figured out the kit can in a week or less. Pretty easy install. Quality is super high and looks amazing.
I love the product. I am just upset that it wasn’t clear it doesn’t come with any hardware. I currently have no clue what barb fittings and hose sizes I need to get for the valve cover to my catch can. I am currently using a hardware store setup as this is my first Cummins and my first quality build of a truck. If there’s anyway you could assist me or point me in the right direction that would be awesome. Aside from that I’ve had nothing but compliments on it, I actually won top 10 truck and SCT x GFP in Nashville a few weeks back. Everyone including myself love the valve cover.
Sometimes it takes a leap in technological advancement to solve those problems. One issue a lot of high powered cars can run into is the possibility of the flywheel coming loose. Flywheels can come loose for a variety of reasons, but once this happens you can pretty much kiss your crank goodbye. Typically if the flywheel comes loose it will end up welding (fretting) itself to the crankshaft and typically damages the crank beyond repair. This can end up being an incredibly costly problem. We've teamed up with global engineering powerhouse, 3M, to offer their friction shim technology specially developed for flywheel applications to provide that extra level of protection. Dubbed Flywheel Friction Locks, our FFLs consist of a nickel-coated steel substrate with partially embedded diamond particles. When placed between the flywheel and crank, the diamonds “bite” into each surface. With an installed thickness of .006"-.009" an FFL will not significantly alter assembly spacing. FFLs are easy to assemble and can be reused after disassembly. To sum that up, by installing a Flywheel Friction Lock you give yourself a much better chance of the flywheel not coming loose in the first place, and if for some reason it does, you'll have an extra layer of very hard steel that can prevent the flywheel from damaging your crankshaft. It has been proven that our FFLs offer a simple and cost-effective way to reliably handle up to 5× higher shear forces and transmit up to 5× higher torque than conventional systems with no other modifications.